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XL XXL XXXLn. crotch pt. to pt. 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 3 39 42 44 46 48 50 52o. elastic, cut @p. elastic, cut @q. button spacingr. button spacings. pocket openingt. pocket openingu. front opening sh.v. front opening regw. front opening tallx. yoke depth GlossaryABDOMEN LEVEL (Ch. 2): A position on the human body or a BAN ROLL (Ch. 6): A product made by QST Industries, Inc.line on a pattern piece that is located at the most full portion of that is a waistband stiffener used in many men's pants' waist-the abdomen and is parallel to the floor. bands.ACETATE SATIN (Ch. 8): Acetate is a man-made fiber made BATTING (Ch. 1): A fibrous material, usually made of syntheticfrom cellulose acetate. Satin is a fabric with a satin weave which fibers, that is formed into rectangular sheets or yardage, used asproduces a shiny smooth surface. an insulation layer in cold weather wear, such as ski jackets, or between fabric layers in quilts.ADDING FULLNESS (Ch. 1): The addition of fullness in width,length, or both, or ease within or around a pattern piece. BELL BOTTOMS (Ch. 6): Pant legs that \"bell\" out from the knee or below the knee with flares.ARMHOLE PLATE (Ch. 2): A metal, oval-shaped plate that isattached to some body forms to represent where the arm con- BELT (Ch. 5): A part of a garment or a separate accessory thatnects with the shoulders and upper torso. encircles the body at or near the waist, used for decoration or to cinch in fabric around the body.ATHLETIC FIT (Ch. 6): A type of garment fit that accentuates aman's athletic physique. It accommodates men who have BELT LOOPS (Ch. 6): Narrow flat strips of fabric sewn to a gar-broader shoulders, larger biceps, and smaller waists than the ment for a belt to pass through that hold it in place, also calledaverage menswear fit. belt caniers.AWL (Ch. 1): A tool with a wood or plastic handle and a slen- BEMBERG (Ch. 8): A lining fabric used in high-quality gar-der metal shaft with a pointed end. It is used to create a tiny ments such as men's suit jackets.hole in fabric to mark the placement of darts, release pleats, orpockets. BIAS (Ch. 1): The direction in fabrics at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise or crosswise directions. Nonstretch fabrics willBABY HEM (Ch. 1): A very narrow hem (uses a 3/16 to 1/4-inch stretch a little along the bias grainline. Some garments are cuthem depth) that may be sewn by hand by rolling the raw edges with the bias grain running up and down the body.under and stitching in place or sewn on a straight stitchmachine with a special presser foot. BICEPS LEVEL (Ch. 3): A position on the body or on a pattern piece that is just below the underarm and is the largest circum-BACK SHOULDER STAY ((Ch. 7): A garment piece cut in tight- ference of the upper arm.ly woven fabric that lies under the self fabric layer, at the upperback and armhole area of a jacket, and helps to prevent stretch- BLAZER (Ch. 7): A classic sport jacket style usually in a soliding or rips in the seams in this area. color or striped. Blazers usually have metal or leather buttons, as opposed to the dull horn or bone buttons used on suit jack-BAND (Ch. 1): A band may be a garment piece cut as a straight ets. Blazers may also have patch pockets instead of insertedstrip. It may finish an outer edge of a garment such as a hem pockets that give them a more casual look.band or a band collar, or it may be used on a garment as deco-ration. BLIND-STITCH MACHINE (Ch. 1): A sewing machine that pro- duces a hem stitch comparable to a hand-sewn hem, with tinyBAND COLLAR (Ch. 4): A collar style that usually fits closely stitches evenly spaced on the outside of the garment.against the neck and does not roll over itself. BLOUSING (Ch. 4): An excess length of fabric in a garment that falls over but is also caught back into a band such as a waist- band or cuff. It can also be held in place by a belt and includes extra fullness so it puffs out from the body. BODY FORM (Ch. 1): A mannequin with a fabric cover that COMMERCIAL PATTERNS (Ch. 1): Patterns produced for themay be pinned into. Modeled after the human body shape, it is home sewing market.used to fit and drape clothing patterns. CONTOURED (Ch. 5): Shaping on a pattern piece to fit the con-BODY SUIT (Ch. 2): A stretchy tight-fitting activewear garment tours of the human body.that covers part or most of the body. CONTOURING (Ch. 1): Fitting a pattern closer to the body thanBOLT (Ch. 1): Fabric that is measured and rolled into a tube or the basic sloper.flat rectangle of stiff paper so it can be stored and identified. CONTRAST (Ch. 1): A pattern labeling term for fabric that dif-BOOT CUT (Ch. 6): Pant legs that are shaped with enough hem fers from the self fabric and is on the outside of the garment.circumference to fit over a pair of boots. CONVERTIBLE COLLAR (Ch. 4): A rolled shirt collar that canBOX PLEAT (Ch. 4): Pleat made by making two folds in fabric; be worn buttoned closed or unbuttoned. When unbuttoned thethe edges face in opposite directions. collar points spread out and lay flatter on the chest.BREAKPOINT (Ch. 7): The position on a garment where the CORDUROY (Ch. 7): A cotton fabric that has a pile surface thatneckline facing folds to the outside forming a revere or lapel. is cut into wales (straight parallel lines) such as pin wale orThe breakpoint is controlled by the garment's closure. wide-wale corduroy. Corduroy may also be uncut and look simi- lar to velveteen.BROADCLOTH (Ch. 4): A fine, tightly woven fabric made ofcotton or wool fiber. COTTON (Ch. 1): A natural fiber that comes from the cotLOn plant, used to make some fabrics. It is soft and absorbent.BUCKLE (Ch. 5): A device attached to one end of a belt; theopposite end of the belt fits through to hold the belt in one COTTO FLANNEL (Ch. 7): Light to medium weight cottonposition. fabric brushed for a soft hand.BUTTONS (Ch. 1): Decorative ornaments used for trimming or COTTON TWILL (Ch. 5): Any cotton fabric with a twill weavefunctional fasteners. Usually drilled with holes or made with a that produces diagonal lines on the cloth.shank for thread to sew through to attach to a garment. COVERSTITCH MACHINE (Ch. 1): A sewing machine that pro-C duces a hem stitch featuring 2 or 3 rows of straight stitches on the outside of the garment at the top edge of the hem and anCANVAS (Ch. 5): A heavy, plain-weave, cotton-type, durable overcast of stitches on the inside of the garment, finishing offfabric used for clothing or items such as shopping bags and the raw edge.awnmgs. CROSS GRAIN (Ch. 1): The direction or type of yarn (weft) thatCAP HEIGHT (Ch. 3): The space or measurement between the is woven across the width of fabric at a 90-degree angle to thebiceps level and the top or cap of a sleeve. straight grain (warp) yarns.CHEST LEVEL (Ch. 2): A position on the human body or a line CROTCH DEPTH (Ch. 2): The distance or measurement fromon a pattern piece at the largest circumference of the chest, par- the waist to the crotch level. In this text it is measured along theallel to the floor. side seam over the curve of the hip. Also called the \"rise.\"CLEAN FINISH (Ch. 5): To protect raw edges of a garment usu- CROTCH EXTENSION (Ch. 3): The distance or the measure-ally by covering with a lining or facing. ment from the center front or center back at the crotch level to the crotch point.COAT (Ch. 1): An outerwear garment that provides warmth andprotects the layers of clothing worn underneath it. CROTCH LENGTH (Ch. 2): The measurement from the center front waisl, down between the legs, and up to the center backCOAT SLOPER (Ch. 3): A basic paper pattern based on the jack- waist.et sloper with additional ease to use for creating flat patterns ofcoat styles. CROTCH LEVEL (Ch. 2): The position on the human body or on a pattern piece where the lower torso ends and the legs sepa-COLLAR (Ch. 1): A part of a garment that attaches to and fin- rate from the body.ishes off the neckline (it can also be detachable). CROTCH POINT (Ch. 3): The intersection of the crotch seamCOLLAR BAND (Ch. 4): A separate band of a collar that is also and the inseam on any garment that has separate leg coveringsthe collar stand. The outer collar or \"fall\" attaches at the top such as pants or a bodysuit.edge and hangs down. CROTCH STAYS (Ch. 6): Pieces of fabric placed inside at theCOLLAR STAND (Ch. 4): The height that a collar rises up front crotch point area on fine men's trousers to reduce stretch-toward the head from the neckline seam. ing or ripping in this area.COLLAR STAY (Ch. 4): A plastic strip that fits into a channel in CUFF (Ch. 4): Finish for a sleeve or pant consisting of a sepa-an under collar to stiffen the collar point. rate sewn-on piece or a turned-back extension.COLOR CODE (Ch. 1): A system used by some manufacturers CUFF LINKS (Ch. 4): Decorative devices that fit through holeson patterns that require more than one fabric type. Colors are in shirt cuffs or down the front as a closure and are not perma-assigned to pattern pieces such as \"lining\" and \"interfacing\" to nently attached to the shirt.easily distinguish which patterns are cut from which fabric. DARTS (Ch. 1): A stitched fold of fabric in a garment that FASHION FABRIC (Ch. 1): The fabric that a garment will ulti-shapes the fabric over the curves of the body and ends at a mately be made from, as opposed to a substitute such as muslinpoint (dart point). used to test the fit of a first sample.DART EQUIVALENTS (Ch. 3): Dart intakes may be converted FIBER CONTENT (Ch. 1): The type of fibers, natural or synthet-into stylelines, gathers, pleats, or release tucks with the fit of the ic, that make up the yams or surface of a fabric such as 100-garment maintained. percent cotton or 50-percent cotton/50-percent ramie.DART INTAKE OR EXCESS (Ch. 1): The space between the FIRST PATTERN (Ch. 1): The original pattern draft or flat pat-stitchlines of a dart that shapes the fabric three dimensionally. tern for a particular style; may also refer to subsequent pattern corrections to the point just before the pattern is transferredDARTLESS JEAN SLOPER (Ch. 3): A dartless pant sloper that is into a production pattern.more fitted than the trouser sloper with less ease in the hip andcrotch area, used to draft short and pant styles. FIRST SAMPLE (Ch. 1): The original sewn garment of a new style that is tested for fit and suitability.DART MANIPULATION (Ch. 3): A flat patternmaking techniquewhere the dart intake that fits a garment piece to the body is FIT (Ch. 1): The process or the culmination of working with arotated to another part of the pattern or is divided into multiple garment pattern or sample garment to arrive at a desired shape,darts. size, and overall appearance.DART POINT (Ch. 1): The end point of a dart stitchline. FIT AND FLARE (Ch. 6): A pant leg shape also called bell bot- tom; wide, flared, pant legs that \"bell\" out from the knee orDART STITCHLINE (Ch. 1): Also called a \"dart leg,\" the line of below the knee.stitches that creates a dart's shape. FIT MODEL (Ch. 1): A body form or a live model used to testDENIM (Ch. 6): Sturdy fabric in a twill weave of cotton fiber, the fit of a sample garment; may also be used to drape fabrictraditionally with indigo blue or brown lengthwise yams and onto for a customized fit.white crosswise yarns. FIVE POCKET JEAN (Ch.6): A classic pant style featuring twoDRESS SHIRT (Ch. 4): A traditional buttoned-down shirt usual- front inserted pockets, one of which has a small patch pocketly worn by men with a necktie and a traditional suit. called a key pocket sewn on top, and two back patch pockets.DOLMAN SLEEVE (Ch. 3): An all-in-one sleeve style that is FIVE-THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE (Ch. 1): A sewingloose fitting and has a concave underarm shape. machine that uses five spools of thread. Two spools create a straight stitch and three spools create an overlock stitch that fin-DOUBLE BREASTED (Ch. 7): A closure on a garment that has a ishes off raw edges of seam allowance.deep overlap at the front with two lengthwise rows of buttons. FLARED HEM (Ch. 6): A hem shape that increases in width as itDOUBLE-ENDED DART (Ch. 1): A dart with points at both nears the hemline and stands away from the body.ends and a wider section in the middle area. FLAT PATTERNMAKING (Ch. 1): A design process in which aDOUBLE PIPING POCKET (Ch. 6): An inserted pocket with base block, or sloper, is used to create a pattern for a new style.two strips of piping that show on the outside of the garment. FLY FRONT (Ch. 6): A closure with buttonholes or a zipper,DROP (Ch. 6): A term meaning the difference between the cus- inserted under a placket, often used on pant fronts.tomer's chest and waist measurements. The drop for a size 40chest jacket that is paired with a size 34 waist pant is 6 inches. FOLDLINE (Ch. 1): A line labeled \"fold,\" with bent arrows at the ends, placed at an edge on a pattern that is meant to beE placed on the fold of the fabric when cut.EASE (Ch. 1): Added fullness in width or length within or FRENCH CUFFS (Ch. 4): Shirt cuff style with a deep cuff thataround a pattern or garment piece; excess beyond the body's folds back up over itself and that usually closes with cufflinksmeasurements. or buttons.EPAULETS (Ch. 4): Ornamental shoulder trim or flat bands of FUSIBLE (Ch. 4): Usually refers to interfacing that has one sidefabric, sometimes fastened with a button. covered with a substance that adheres to fabric when heated with an iron or fusing machine.FABRIC (Ch. 1): Textile fabric is cloth made of textile yarns by GATHERS (Ch. 1): Drawn up fullness along several threads in aweaving, knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, felting, and row of stitching.bonding. GORGE LINE (Ch. 7): The seam between a collar and revere ofFABRIC GRAINLINES (Ch. 1): The directions or types of yarns a lapel on a jacket or coat.that make up a length of fabric, such as straight grain (warp),cross grain (weft), and bias grain. GRADING (Ch. 1): The process of enlarging or reducing the dimensions of a sample size pattern, to create a complete sizeFACING (S) (Ch. 1): Fabric pieces attached to the raw edge of range. Grading also means trimming layers of seam allowancesome part of a garment to finish that edge. to different widths to reduce bulk at the seams. GRADING MACHINE (Ch. 1): A tool with knobs, gears, rulers, KANGAROO POCKET (Ch. 4): A patch pocket style that is extraand pattern holders that is used to grade a pattern size range. large and is placed on the center front of a garment.GROMMETS (Ch. 4): Small to large metal rings with backings KEY POCKET (Ch. 6): Small patch pocket that is sewn inside ofthat are fastened into holes in garments for lacing to go a large right front pocket in jeans-style pants.through. KIMONO SLEEVE (Ch. 3): A loose fitting rectangular sleeveH that attaches to the body piece by a seam that is dropped below the natural shoulder position.HAIR CANVAS INTERFACING (Ch. 7): Canvas fabric of linenand hair used for interfacing in tailored garments that is pad KNITS (Ch. 1): Fabrics or items of apparel made by the interlac-stitched in place. ing of loops by machine or by hand, which allows the fabric to stretch.HANDKERCHIEF (Ch. 1): A small square offabric that has fin-ished edges and is placed in the breast pocket of a suit jacket LAPEL (Ch. 7): The combination of a collar and a revere on awith part of the square peaking out of the pocket. shirt, jacket, or coat; may also be in one piece such as a shawl collar.HEM ALLOWANCE (Ch. 1): Excess beyond the hem foldline fin-ished in some manner so the fabric's raw edges do not ravel. LEATHER (Ch. 7): Skin or hide of an animal with the hair removed and the grain revealed by process of tanning, used forHEM (Ch. 1): Method of finishing edges such as at the bottom clothing and accessories.of a shirt, pant, or jacket. LINEN (Ch. 7): A natural fiber fabric made from the flax plant,HIP LEVEL (Ch. 2): A position on the human body or a line on which is strong and very absorbent.a pattern piece at the largest circumference of the hips and but-tocks, parallel to the floor. LINING (Ch. 1): Any fabric used on the inside of a garment that hides the construction of the garment. May be used toHOOD (Ch. 4): A part of a garment that may be worn up over reduce bulk in a garment, such as the inner pieces of a pocket.the head covering the top, sides, and back of the head. LOOM (Ch. 1): A mechanical device for weaving cloth (fabric).I LOW-RISE (Ch. 6): A style of waistline for pants that sits belowINNER-CONSTRUCTION (Ch. 7): Any garment pieces or fabric the natural waist position because the crotch depth (rise) islayers that are sewn behind the self fabric layer, such as pocket shortened or it is lowered at the waist.facings or backings, underlining, or interlining. MANILA PAPER (Ch. 1): A name for heavy pattern paper that isINSEAM (Ch. 2): A seam on a garment with separate legs such used for patterns that must last a long period of time.as pants, shorts, or bodysuit that joins the front and back downthe inner leg. Also refers to a measurement from the crotch MARKER (Ch. 1): A thin piece of paper (with a grid pattern)down to a pant hem or to the floor. that is the same width as the fabric, which has pattern pieces traced on it. It is placed on top of several layers of fabric toINSEAM POCKET (Ch. 6): A pocket style that is attached at a guide the cutters.seam and is often hidden inside the garment. MARKER PAPER (Ch. 1): White paper with a grid printed on itINSERTED POCKETS (Ch. 6): Pocket styles that require a slit to with letters and numbers, also called dot paper, used to tracebe cut in a garment piece to allow an opening for the pocket. the pattern pieces of a style for a cutting layout.INTERFACING (Ch. 1): A stiffener fabric sewn or fused onto MEN'S SIZES (Ch. 2): A range of sizes for adult men. Regu-fabric layers to give them more body and to retain their shape. lar men's sizes fit men approximately 5 foot 10 inches tall, short men's sizes fit men approximately 5 foot 6 inches tall, andINTERLINING (Ch. 1): An inner layer of lining fabric that is tall men's sizes fit men approximately 6 foot 2 inches tall.sandwiched between the self (or underlining) layer and the lin- Men's sizes are usually labeled with numbers that corresponding layer seen on the inside of the garment. It adds extra weight to body measurements such as size 40 chest, size 151/2 inchand stability to a garment and may provide insulation in cold neck, or size 34 waist, or they may be marked with names suchweather wear. as small, medium, and large.JACKET (Ch. 1): A garment that is usually worn over a shirt or MUSLIN (Ch. 1): A 100-percent cotton fabric with a weave thatsweater to add warmth or complete an ensemble. is easily seen, such as straight grain and cross grain. Used as a substitute for fashion fabric to drape with or to test fit.JACKET SLOPER (Ch. 3): A basic paper pattern that is based onthe upper body and trouser slopers and the fitted sleeve sloper Nwith additional ease to use for making flat patterns of jacketstyles. NECKLINE (Ch. 1): An opening in a garment that allows the head to pass through and frames the face, neck, and upperJEANS (Ch 1.): Pants of a casual style usually made of a heavy torso.twill weave fabric (denim) that is very durable.JOG SEAM (Ch. 1): A point in a seam where the depth of theseam changes, such as from J/4 inch to J/2 inch. NECKTIE (Ch. 4): An accessory that encircles the neck over a PATTERNMAKER (Ch. 1): A person who creates patterns thatcollar. It is looped or knotted close to the neck, with the ends are used to cut shapes out of fabric that are assembled into gar-hanging down the front of the body. ments, accessories, or soft goods.NOTCHED LAPEL (Ch. 7): A garment lapel style that features a PATTERNMAKING (Ch. 1): The design process of creating acollar and revere that separate from each other at the end of the pattern by drafting, draping, or flat pattern that is used to cre·neckline or gorge line with a V shape. ate various clothing, accessory, or soft good styles.NOTCHER (Ch. 1): A tool made of metal that notches pattern PATTERN SNIPS (Ch. 1): A heavy scissor that has long handlespieces removing a tiny rectangle at a pattern's edge to mark the and short blades, used to cut heavy pattern paper.placement of darts, tucks, or pleats; the depth of seamallowance; or to match a seam between two pattern pieces. PEA COAT (Ch. 7): An upper thigh length, double breasted, navy ship pilot's coat. It is very warm and has a boxy fit.NOTCHES (Ch. 1): Clips or slices into the seam allowance on apattern or a garment piece that are used to mark seam and hem PIVOTING (Ch. 1): A flat patternmaking technique thatallowance depth; to mark dart, pleat, or tuck intakes; and to involves tracing part of a pattern piece, then holding a pivotmatch pieces together. point in place and rotating the pattern to a new position. Once in the new position, the rest of the pattern piece is traced.NOTIONS (Ch. 1): Decorative or functional items that are usedto complete a garment, also called findings, such as buttons, PLACKET (Ch. 3): A slit opening, usually finished with a bandzippers, hooks, bindings, and tapes. that closes with buttons, snaps, or hooks.ON-THE-FOLD (Ch. 1): If cutting one garment, fabric may be PLEATS (Ch. 1): Folds offabric usually pressed flat, which arefolded over itself. A pattern piece may have a straight edge occasionally partially stitched down, then released intoplaced against the fold, so it will be cut mirror image without a fullness.seam down the center. PLEATED WAISTBAND CURTAIN (Ch. 6): A type of waist fac-ORIGINAL DRAFT (Ch. 1): The first pattern drafted for a sloper ing used in menswear that uses a fabric different from the out-or new style. It may include lines for pattern pieces that over- side waistband. It is pleated and hides the layer of stiffener thatlap, such as flares or pocket pieces. The separate pattern pieces keeps the waistband smooth and firm.may be traced from the original draft. PLY (Ch. 1): A layer of fabric; when stacking layers of fabric,OUTSEAM (Ch. 2): A seam on a garment with separate legs, one ply equals one layer.such as pants, shorts, or bodysuits that joins the front and backdown the outside of the leg, also called a side seam. May also POCKET (Ch. 1): A part of a garment or accessory (such as a refer to a measurement from the waist down to a pant hem or to bag) made of one or more pieces of fabric to create a bag, in the floor. which hands or items may be placed, on the outside or the inside of the garmen t.OVERSIZED (Ch. 4): A very loose garment fit. May also belonger than usual. POCKETING (Ch. 6): A durable cotton-type fabric in a plain weave used for pocket bags.OXFORD (Ch. 4): Light weight, soft, cotton fabric with finewarp (lengthwise yarns) and coarse weft (crosswise yarns) yarns, POLO SHIRT (Ch. 4): A classic men's knit shirt style featuring a used for shirts. front neck placket, short sleeves, a ribbing (rib knit) collar, and occasionally ribbing cuffs. PANEL STYLELINE (Ch. 5): A lengthwise styleline that runs a little forward or behind the normal side seam position and may POLYESTER FLEECE (Ch. 1): A fabric made of polyester fiber give shape to a garment without side seams. that is soft, thick, and warm. PANT (Ch. 1): Clothing for the lower torso made to fit around POLYESTER FIBER FILL (Ch. 8): A polyester fibrous substance each leg. May be any length and width. sold as loose stuffing to fill the inside of pillows or toys. Also formed into sheets or yardage that may be used as a layer of PATCH POCKET (Ch.4): Pocket stitched on outside of gar- interlining inside a garment to add warmth or between layers of ment, either made plain or with a flap. fabric in a quilt. PATTERN CHART (Ch. 1): A printed chart that is filled in with POLYSHEEN (Ch. 6): A fine pocketing material that is smooth information relating to a specific garment and that is placed in yet strong with a slight sheen to it and is used in fine menswear. front of the pattern, hanging from a pattern hook. POPLIN (Ch. 4): Medium-weight durable fabric with a cross- PATTERN DRAFTING (Ch. 1): A design process that involves wise rib effect made with cotton fiber or a blend of fibers. taking measurements from a fit model, then transferring these measurements onto a paper pattern to create various clothing, POUCH POCKET (Ch. 5): A patch pocket that has depth accessory, or soft good styles. added to it in the form of another piece of fabric or by shap- ing or pleating the corners, so the pocket has room for bulky items. PRESSER FOOT (Ch. 1): A part of a sewing machine that press- es the fabric against the throat plate, while the needle goes through the fabric to create a stitch. PRODUCTION eCho 1): The department or process that pro- SEASON eCho 1): The yearly seasons that fashion manufactur-duces garments and accessories, from perfecting the patterns, to ers use to design and market their collections. Some manufac-grading size ranges, cutting, and sewing. turers offer \"extra\" seasons, such as \"transition,\" \"resort,\" and \"holiday.\"PRODUCTION PATTERN eCho 1): The final perfect pattern thatis used to grade a size range of patterns. SELF eCho 1): A generic term used for pattern labeling that refers to the fabric that makes up most or all of the outside of aPRODUCTION PATTERN MAKER eCho 1): A person whose job garment.is to perfect the first pattern, turning it into a productionpattern. SELVAGE eCho 1): A tightly woven edge on a length of fabric.PUNCH HOLES eCho 1): Tiny holes marked in fabric used to SET-IN SLEEVE eCho 3): A sleeve that sets into the armhole asindicate placement of pockets, dart points, curved darts, or the opposed to an all-in-one sleeve or body style, such as a dolmanend of stitchlines for stitched pleats. sleeve. It also means a sleeve that joins the garment body at or very near the shoulder tip position.R SHIRT eCho 1): Clothing for the upper part of the body thatRAGLAN SLEEVE eCho 4): Sleeve that extends to the neckline, usually but not always closes with buttons down the front.set in by seams that slant from the underarm front and back. SHIRT TAILS eCho 4): The bottom edge of a shirt. May have aRAYON eCho 7): Generic fiber name for manufactured cellulosic side slit that separates the front and back edges that may befibers regenerated from short cotton fibers or wood chips. curved or squared.RAW EDGE eCho 1): A cut edge of fabric that doesn't have a fin- SHORTS eCho 1): Any pant style that is shorter than kneeish treatment. Raw edges of woven fabric will ravel or fray if not length.protected. SHOULDER BLADE LEVEL eCho 2): A position on the humanREVERE eCho 7): A portion of a facing that shows on the out- body or a line on a pattern piece that is at the upper back and isside of the garment beginning at the breakpoint. It folds along parallel to the floor. The shoulder blade level is found at thethe roll line and may join a collar such as a notched lapel style. upper quarter mark of the center back neck to waist length.RIBBING eCho 4): Knitted fabric that shows alternate length- SHOULDER PADS eCho 7): Pads made of cotton or other fiberswise rows of ribs and wales on both sides. It is very stretchy and that are shaped to add height and width to the shoulders of ais used at necklines, cuffs, and waistbands, and is also called rib garment, which also provides stability in this area.knit. SILK eCho 1): Fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm.ROLL HEM eCho 1): A hem made by folding under a raw edgeof fabric, then folding under again and stitching in place. The SINGLE BREASTED eCho 7): A closure on a garment with a nar-depth of hem is a variable. row overlap at the front that has one lengthwise row of buttons.ROLL LINE eCho 4): The foldline where the collar stand ends SIZE eCho 1): A number, letter, or group of words that identifyand the collar begins to fold over itself. the body dimensions a garment is made to fit. For example, a men's size 40 fits a chest circumference of 40 inches, and a R.S.U. eCho 4): Stands for \"right side up\" and is labeled on men's size medium fits chest circumferences of 38 to 40 inches. pattern pieces that must be cut face up on the right side of the fabric. SIZE RANGE eCho 1): Manufacturers have established certain common body dimensions and proportions into categories to SAFARI SHIRT eCho 4): A classic shirt style of cotton-type fabric identify which body measurements fit which clothing sizes. For that has buttons down the front and large front pockets usually example, men's regular sizes might be sold in a range from 34 with flaps and epaulets at the shoulders. chest up to 44 chest. SAILOR OR MIDDY COLLAR eCho 4): A large square collar that SLASH AND SPREAD eCho 1): A pattern drafting technique that hangs in the back and tapers to a V in the front. involves drawing a slashline on a pattern piece, cutting along the line, and spreading the pattern sections apart. May also be SAMPLE SIZE eCho 1): The clothing size of first patterns and used to overlap pattern sections. sample garments. Some manufacturers use a fashion model's size. It is best for grading purposes to use a size near the middle SLEEVE eCho 1): A part of clothing that covers all or part of the of the offered size range. arm. SCREW PUNCH eCho 1): A tool made of metal that cuts tiny SLEEVE CAP eCho 2): The area of a sleeve pattern or garment holes out of pattern paper at punch hole placements to mark that is above the biceps level and sews to an armhole. the placement through the paper onto a marker. SLEEVE HEADER eCho 7): An interfacing or interlining piece SEAM ALLOWANCE eCho 1): Excess beyond stitchlines on pat- that is sewn at the upper armhole seam of set-in sleeves on jack- tern pieces or fabric pieces, usually 1/4 inch up to 3/4 inch wide, ets or coats and supports the cap ensuring a smooth fit. which make it possible to join pieces to one another with a sewing machine or by hand. SLOPER eCho 1): Basic pattern for garment sections without style lines or seam allowances developed from a body form or fit model that is used to flat pattern new designs. SPECIFICATION SHEETS eCho 4): Printed charts that are filled TROUSER eCho 3): A garment that covers the body fromin with information relating to a specific garment, used by the approximately the waist to the tops of the feet and covers theproduction department and production contractors. legs individually. It fits loosely around the low hip and thighs, hanging almost straight down from the hip level without cup-STRAIGHT GRAIN eCho 1): The first yarns placed on a loom ping under the buttocks.are called the warp. The direction of these yarns is parallel tothe length of woven fabric. TRUE BIAS eCho 1): A grainline direction set at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain or the cross grain. Nonstretch fabricsSTRAIGHT ROLLED COLLAR eCho 4): A collar style that has a will stretch at least a small amount along this grainline.straight neckline seam and rolls or folds over itself. TRUING eCho 1): The action of correcting or blending lines,STRAIGHT-STITCH MACHINE eCho 1): A sewing machine that curves, darts, pleats, or tucks on pattern pieces.produces a lock stitch or a chain stitch and may have a varietyof presser feet and attachments available to perform different T-SHIRT eCho 4): Originally a white undershirt worn by menseam finishes or trim applications. featuring a round neck and set-in sleeves, this knitted pullover sport shirt is now made in any color and is frequently screenSTITCHLINE(S) eCho 1): A line of stitches produced by hand printed.or machine, or a line drawn on a pattern indicating a line ofstitches. TUCK eCho 1): Stitched folds in fabric used for decoration. Tucks do not affect the fit of a garment unless they are unevenSTYLELINES eCho 1): Seams that divide garment pieces. May in depth from end to end.be used as dart equivalents when they run through or near dartpoints. TURTLENECK COLLAR eCho 4): High-band collar, usually knit- ted, that fits very close to the neck and rolls over.SUIT eCho 5): A jacket and trouser combination. May alsoinclude a vest for a three-piece suit. TWILL eCho 6): Fabric made with the twill weave, which is char- acterized by diagonal wales.SUSPENDERS eCho 6): Detachable straps of elasticized fabricpassed over the shoulders and clipped or buttoned to trousers TWILL TAPE eCho 2): A narrow cotton tape with a twill weave,front and back to keep the trouser from slipping down below used to stabilize parts of garments as inner-construction or tothe waist. mark stylelines on a body form.SWEATSHIRT eCho 4): Long-sleeved, fleece backed, cotton-knit TWO-PIECE SLEEVE eCho 7): Usually refers to a sleeve stylepullover or zipped-front knit shirt with a rib knit crewneck col- that is cut in two lengthwise pieces: one for under the arm andlar or a hood. one for the top of the arm. Cut to allow for the arm to bend at the elbow, it is generally used for tailored suits.SWEATPANTS eCho 6): Pants of cotton knit with fleece backingto absorb moisture. TWO-PLY eCho 4): A yarn that is made with two long fiber threads twisted together to make a single yarn, that is thenTAILORED eCho 4): Indicates an item of apparel that is relative- tightly woven with other two-ply yarns resulting in a strong,ly plain and without decoration and that depends on the line smooth fabric. More uniform than a single ply. This techniqueand fit of the item for style. is used in some fine men's shirtings such as two-ply broadcloth.TAILORING eCho 7): Refers to the fine construction process of UNDER COLLAR eCho 4): A collar layer that lies under the outertailored style garments such as woolen suits. In some cases, may collar layer and is not seen.also mean custom fitting a garment to a particular customer. UNDERLINING eCho 1): A fabric layer sewn \"as one\" with theTAILOR TACKS eCho 2): Hand-sewn stitch that goes through sel f layer, to add stabil ity to a flimsy self fabric or additionalfabric forming a loop with both free ends of the thread, about 1 support across the upper back of a jacket.inch long. Used as a temporary marking on fabric that is easilyremoved and does not damage the fabric. UNDERSHIRT eCho 4): A close fitting knitted pullover shirt worn by men underneath a woven shirt, to absorb moisture andTENNIS TAIL eCho 4): A shirt hem style that is \"cut straight\" at to provide a smooth, opaque surface between the body and thethe side seams but is cut longer in the back hem than the front outer woven shirt for a professional appearance.hem. UPPER BODY SLOPER eCho 3): A basic paper pattern that cov-THREE-THREAD OVERLOCK eCho 1): A sewing machine that ers the male body upper torso from the shoulders to the waist,uses three spools of thread to create an overlock stitch that fin- used to draft original patterns to create new designs.ishes off raw edges of seam allowance. This stitch can beachieved on a five-thread machine with two of the threads tied UPPER COLLAR eCho 4): A collar layer that lies on top of theoff. under collar and is seen on the outside of a garment.TORSO eCho 2): The trunk of the human body from the high Vshoulder point down to the crotch level, not including the annsand legs. VELCRO eCho 5): Trademark name for a tape woven with minute nylon hooks that mesh with loops on opposite tape. Used as a means of garment closure. VENT eCho 7): A vertical slit in a garment, usually from the hem WOOL MELTON eCho 7): A heavy weight, closely woven woolupward. fabric with a slight nap used for coats and uniforms.VEST eCho 1): A garment that extends to or below the waist, WOOL SUITING eCho 6): Any woolen fabric in a weight andusually worn over a shirt and sometimes under a suit jacket. hand suitable for tailored jackets and trousers.WAISTCOAT eCho 5): An older name for a vest, which is still WOOLLY NYLON THREAD eCho 1): A fibrous thread thatused by some clothiers. stretches when pulled, may be used in the bobbin when sewing stretch fabric on a straight stitch machine. Woolly thread mayWAISTLINE eCho 2): A position on the human body or on a be used in the upper looper of a roll edge machine to cover thepattern piece that is at the smallest circumference of the torso. rolled edge.WARP eCho 1): The first yarns placed on a loom in preparation Yfor weaving a length of fabric. YARDS eCho 1): Units of measure in the imperial system. OneWEAVE eCho 1): The process, culmination, or type of construc- yard is equal to 36 inches or 3 feet.tion of fabric on a loom, as opposed to fabrics that are createdby knitting or other processes. YOKE eCho 4): Portion of garment fitted across the shoulders in front, back, or both to which the lower front and back sectionsWEFT eCho 1): Yarns that are woven between the warp or are attached. Also used to describe a fitted top of a pant tostraight grain yarns to create the fill of a woven fabric. which the lower part of the garment is attached.WELT POCKET eCho 1): Usually an insert pocket that is fin- Zished at the opening with one band. Some welt pockets areinseam pockets and are finished with a band on the outside of a ZIPPERS eCho 1): Devices with teeth that are interlocked by agarment. pull that are used as a means of closing a garment, such as at the fly of a pair of pants.WOOL eCho 5): A natural fiber that is made from sheep hair. Indexacetate satin, 180 break point, 142armhole plate, 20 broadcloth (cotton), 81, 90, 157armholes button-down collar, 81, 84 buttons, 17, 70, 122, 126, 127 ease and lowering of, 64 in jacket sloper, 144 for suit jacket, 151, 153, 158 measurement of, 23,47-48 mid-armhole guideline, 40 canvas, 102 raglan sleeves and, 75 center back neck position, 22, 39 sloper drafting and, 37, 38, 41, 43 center back vent, 177 in woven vest, 105 center front, 49arm measurements, 27-28 chest level, 37 table, 58athletic fit, 109 on body form, 20awl, 13, 15 on live model, 21-22 chest measurementsbaby hems, 10 neckline and, 24back shoulder stay, 157 size table, 58band, in contrasting color, 5, 96 waist and, 109band collar, 62, 63 chest width, 39Ban Roll, 131 clean finish, 99base block, 1-2. See aLso sloper coats, 141. See aLso jackets and coats; pea coatbatting, 7, 169, 170 hems in, 12bell bottoms (leg shape), 112 slopers for, 35, ]59-161belt loops collar backing, 91 collar band, 62, 63 in pants, ]22-123, 132 collars, 4, 78-79, 93 in shorts, 126-127 button-down, for dress shirt, 81, 84belt with buckle, in vest, 99 convertible, 62, 63, 77Bemberg (lining fabric), 176 jean jacket, 148bias grainline, 3 in long sleeved shirt, 84, 90-91biceps level, 44 polo shirt, 70blazer (jacket), 151 straight rolled, 62, 63blind stitches, 177 suit jacket lapels and, 141, 142, 152-153blind-stitch hem, 12 theory of, 62- 63blind-stitch machine, 12 collar stand, 62, 63blousing, above cuff, 73 collar stay, 91body forms, 1, 16, 19 color coding, 5-7 measurement of, 20-21, 23-26 commercial patterns, 1body scanners, 2 computerized grading, 14bodysuit, 20, 21 computerized patternmaking, 2bolt of fabric, 3 contrast fabric, 5-6boot cut (leg shape), 112, 120 convertible collar, 62, 63, 77 corduroy, 146 ease, 35, 55cotton fabric in coats, 162, 167 in shirts, 61-62, 77 broadcloth, 81, 90,157 in suit jackets, 151, 152 corduroy, 146 in vests, 97, 99 flannel, 158, 169, 170 in waistline, 55, 65 muslin, 15, 17,53-55 at wrist, 46 oxford, 81 poplin, 77, 124 elastic, in measurement, 21-22 twill, 102, 104 elasticized hem band, 105countoured center, 99 elasticized waistband, 115, 126coverstitch hem, 10 elbow dart, 46, 47coverstitch machine, 10 epaulets, 78crewneck ribbing in t-shirt, 65, 66cross grainline, 3 fabric, 1. See also under cotton fabriccrotch bolt of, 3 curves, 51-52, 59, 118, 139 fashion, 17 extension, 50, 53, 59, 111-112, 139 knit fleece,S, 96-99 fly rront, 109, 122, 130 lining fabric (See lining) length, 29,111-112,116 ply (layer) of, 4 level, 21, 49 self,S, 169 point, 50, 53 shrinkage of, 120, 146 stays, 131 for suit jackets, 151crotch depth, 29,110-111,112 woolen, 95, 128, 161 in jeans, 116, 117, 119cuffed hem, in trousers, 136 fabric grainline. See grainlinecuff links, 90 facings, 6, 100cuffs, 85-86 fashion fabric, 17 French, 61, 90, 91,143 fashion industry, 2-3 for sweatshirt, 73 fiber content,Scutting process, 10 first pattern, 2 first sample, 2dart equivalents, 56, 62,149 fit, 2, 109dart in take, 13dartless jean, 35, 116-119 crotch level and, 49, 111 suit jacket, 142-143 crotch length in, 111, 117, 119 true bias and, 3dart manipulation, 35 undershirts and, 65dart points, 14,55 fit and flare (be]] bottoms), 112darts, 2, 56 fit model, 16, 18 fitted vest. See suit vest double-ended, 13 five-pocket jeans, 120-123 elbow, 46, 47 five-thread overlock machine, 9 marking, 13-14 flannel, 158, 169, 170 truing of, 7 flaps, for pockets, 154 waist, 39,40,41,52-53 flared hem, 112dart stitchline, 14 flat pattern making, 1-2denim, 120, 146, 150. See also jeans fleece (polyester), 5, 96design sketch proportions, 65 fleece vest (style 0501), 96-99dolman sleeve, 44 fly rront, 109, 122, 130double-breasted pea coat. foldlines,7-8 French cuffs, 61, 90, 91,143 See pea coat, double-breasted French curve, 38, 40-41, 46, 52,118double piping pockets, 128, 130, 154, 163-164 front grainline, 50 fullness, 2, 35 lining for, 174, 178 in shirts, 61-62drafting of pattern, 1, 7 fusible interfacing, 86,142,157,169 See also sloper set, drafting of gathers, 2, 3, 13drawstrings, 73 gorge line, 142, 152, 162 grading, 3, 14 in sweat pants waist, 113, 114, 115 grading machine, 14\"dress\" left, 112dress shirt, 61, 90-93 completed pattern, 92-93\"drop\" (chest: waist ratio), 109 grainline, 1, 3-4 classic 5-pocket, 120-] 23 in pattern paper, 56 crotch length in, 11], 117, 119 straight, 3, 55 dartless, 35,111,116-119 in trousers, 50, 129 rolled hems for, 10 jog seam, 8, 150grommets, 73 kangaroo pocket, 72, 74hair canvas interfacing, 157 key pocket, in jeans, 121hem allowance, 1, 10, 12 kimono sleeve, 44hems, 3 knee widths, 1] 8, 139 knits band, 105 jacket and coat, 12 fitting range and, 3 for knits, 10, 12 fleece vest (style 050]), 96-99 lining and, 173, 177 hemming of, 10, 12 in pant legs, 112, 114, 117-118, 136 ribbing/rib, 65, 66, 115 shirt tails, 68 stretch in, 97, 115 widths, 50, 59, 139 sweat pants, 113-115hip curve, 51 knit shirts, 65-76hip level, 28, 49 classic t-shirt, 65-67 on body form, 20-21 polo shirt, 68-71 on live model, 22 raglan sleeve variation, 75-76hip measurement, 59 recreating proportions, 65 See also crotch sleeve cap height, 64hip width, 49 sleeve theory, 64hooded sweatshirt, 71-76 stylelines,62 sweatshirts, 7]-76inner-construction, 142inseam, 29, 51, 118 labeling, 4-5, 6-7inseam pocket, 114-115 lapelsinterfacing, 6-7,127 on pea coat, 162-163 fusible, 86, 142,157,169 on suit jackets, 141, 142, 152-153 hair canvas, 157-158 leather buttons, 151 waistband, 131 leg measurement, 29-30 in woven vests, 101, 105 leg shape, in pants, 112interlining, 7, ] 69 linen, 151 linings, 5, 6-7, 169-] 83jackets and coats acetate satin, 180 coat sloper, 159-161 fusible interfacing, 86, 142,157, ]69 hems, 12 interlining, 7,169 jacket sloper, ]43-145 pocketing, 115, 125, 126, 133, 176 jean jacket, 146-]50 seam finishing and, 183 pea coat (style 0703),161-167 in suit jackets, 172-176 completed pattern, ]65-166 underlining, 7, 169 lapels and pockets, 162-164 waistband curtain, ] 31 pattern chart, 167, ]82 in woven vests, 6, 101, 170-171 two-piece sleeves, 164 live model, ]6, ]8, 19 pocket placement in, 147-148 measurement of, 21-23, 27-30 slopers,35 lower torso measurement, 28-29 suit jackets low-rise pants, 110 ideal fit, 142-143 lapels on, 142 manila paper, 15, 16-17,56, 116 suit jacket (style 0702), ] 51-] 58 marker, 4 button placement, 151, 153, ]58 marker paper, 15 completed patterns, 156-158 measurements, 19-34 lining for, ] 72-176 notched lapel for, ]4], ]52-153 arm, 27-28, 58 sleeves for, 154-156 of body forms, 20-21, 23-26 three-button variation, 158 checking, 26, 30 checklist for, ] 9-20jean jacket (style 0701), ]46-150 for classic t-shirt, 65-66. completed pattern, 150Jeans Measurements (continued) for pea coat (style 0702),167,182 of live models, 21-23, 27-30 for trousers (style 0604), 134 lower torso and leg, 28-30 for utility vest (style 0503), 106 set-in sleeve, 44 pattern grainlines, 4 size charts, 30-31, 32-34 upper torso, 23-26 pattern maker, 2 patternmaking, 1-18measurement tables, 58-59men's size, 19. See also size color coding and, 5-7middy (sailor) collar, 62, 63 computerized, 2model. See live modelmuslin (cotton fabric), 15, 17,53-55 drafting, 1, 7 fabric grain lines, 3-4narrow hems, 10 for fashion industry, 2-3neckline, 1 fitting and, 2 flat pattern making, 1-2 collars and, 62-63 foldlines, 7-8 crewneck ribbing in t-shirt, 65, 66 hem allowance, 10, 12 measuremen t of, 24 key terms, 3-17 sloper drafting and, 38, 40-41 labeling, 4-5, 6neck/shoulder corner, 39 marker, 4necktie, collar and, 63 marking, 12-14notched lapel, 141, 152-153 overlock machines, 8-10notcher, 15 paper for, 15, 16-17,55-56,116notches, 1, 12-13,41,48,53,119 pattern grainlines, 4notions, 5, 17 See also buttons; zippers seam allowance, 8offshore production, 2 tools and equipment used in, 15\"on the fold,\" 7,55original drafts, 7 pattern marking notches. See notchesoutseam, 29, 51,118 pattern paper, 15, 16-17,55-56overlock machine, 8-10 pattern snips, 15oversized fit, 65 pea coat, double-breasted (style 0703),142,161-167panel stylelines, 96 completed pattern, 165-166pants, 109-139 lapels and pockets, 162-164 pattern chart, 167, 182 belt loops in, 122-123, 132 two-piece sleeves, 164 body form for, 16 placket crotch depth, 110-111, 116, 117, 119 in long sleeved shirt, 82, 83, 85, 86, 92 drafting trouser sloper, 48-53 in polo shirt, 68, 69-70 hems in, 50, 112, 114, 117-118, 136, 139 at wrist, 46 Jeans pleated-front trouser (style 0604), 109, 128-137 belt loops, 132 classic five-pocket, 120-123 completed pattern, 132-133 crotch length in, 111, 117, 119 design variation, 135-137 dartlessjean sloper, 116-119 fly front and crotch stays, 130 rolled hems for, 10 pattern chart for, 134 knit sweat pants (style 0601),113-115 pockets, 128, 129-130 leg shape, 112 waistband treatments, 131, 136-137 pleated-front trouser (style 0604),109,128-137 pleats, 2, 3, 13 design variation, 135-137 in pockets, 78, 174, 178 fly front and crotch stays, 130 in shirt sleeves, 85 pattern chart for, 134 pockets, 128, 129-130 truing of, 7 waistband, 131, 136-137 shorts (style 0603), 124-127 ply (layer of fabric), 4 waistline placement, 110 pocketing (lining fabric), 115, 125, 126, 133, 176paper for patternmaking, 15, 16-17,55-56, 116 pocketspatch pockets, 69, 103, 104-105pattern charts, 5 contrasting color in, 5 for long sleeve shirt (style 0405), 87 double piping, 128, 130, 154, 163-164 lining for, 174, 178 flapped, pleated, 78 in jackets and coats, 154 jean jacket, 147-148 kangaroo, in sweatshirt, 72, 74 in knit vests, 98 in long sleeved shirt, 82, 83 sewing techniques, 1 in pants shirt cuffs, 73, 85-86 in classic jeans, 121-122 French cuffs, 61, 90, 91,143 inseam, in sweat pants, 114-115 and jacket sleeve length, 143 inserted, 124 shirts, 61-94. See aLso shirts, knit; shirts, woven in pleated trousers, 128, 129-130 armholes and ease in, 64 shorts, 124-125 collars, 62-63, 78-79 patch, 69, 103, 104-105 ease and fullness in, 61-62 placement of, 13 shirts, knit, 65-76 in polo shirt, 69 classic t-shirt, 65-67 in utility vest, 102, 104-105 polo shirt, 68-71 in woven vests, 100 raglan sleeve variation, 75-76polo shirt (style 0402), 68-71 recreating proportions, 65 completed pattern, 70-71 sleeve cap height, 64polyester fiber fill, 170polyester fleece, 5, 96-99 sleeve theory, 64Polysheen (pocketing), 133 stylelines, 62poplin (cotton fabric), 77, 124 sweatshirts, 71-76pouch pockets, 102 shirts, woven, 77-93presser foot, 10 long sleeve dress shirt, 90-93production patternmaker, 2-3 long sleeve (style 0405), 81-93punch holes and circles, 1, 13-14, 125 pattern chart for, 87 short-sleeve \"safari,\" 77-81raglan sleeves, 62, 75-76 specification sheets for, 88-89raw edges, hems and, 10 shin tails, 68rayon, 151regular sizes, 32 short sizes, 33 arm measurement, 58 arm measurement, 58reveres, 142, 152, 153, 162 shorts (style 0603), 124-127ribbing/rib knit, 65, 66, 115\"right side up\" (R.S.D.), 71 body form for, 16roll hems, 10 completed pattern, 127roll line, 62, 63, 70 shoulder/armhole intersection, 21RSD. See \"right side up\" (R.S.D.) shoulder blade level, 22-23, 25\"safari\" shirt (style 0404),77-81 shoulder/neckline intersection, 23 completed pattern, 81 shoulder pads, 152, 173 shoulder tip, 39sailor collar, 62, 63 shrinkage of fabric, 120, 146sample size, 18 side seam/waist corner, 23, 37,40screw punch, 13, 15,41 side waist guideline, 37seam allowance, 1,8,56, 133 silk handkerchiefs, 10 in five-pocket jean, 123 silk vest, 95 notches to indicate, 13 single-breasted suit jacket, 141 pattern corners and, 10 size, on collar label, 4 in shirt pattern, 86 size charts, 18,30-31,32-34 in suit jacket, 158 size range, 1,3,14,19 in sweat pants, 115 sleeve cap, 21, 43, 45-46 in sweatshirt, 73-74 in woven vests, 101, 105 ease in, 48seam finishing, linings and, 183seamlines, 55 extended shoulder and, 64season, 4self fabric, 5 height of, 44 linings and, 169, 182 sleeve header, 156 selvage, 3, 4, 7 sleeves, 7, 64set-in sleeve, 44-48 sewing process, 10 coat sloper, 160-161 cuffs for, 73, 85-86 dolman, 44 drafting sloper for, 44-48 dress shirt, 84-86 jacket and coat, 143, 144-145 jean jacket, 148-149 lining for, 174-175,179-180 suit jacket, 154-156 two-piece, 155-156, 164, 174-175, 179-180 Sleeves, jacket and coat (continued) tall sizes, 34 kimono, 44 arm measurement, 58 long sleeved shirt, 84-86 measurement for, 27-28 tape measure, 20 polo shirt, 70 tennis tail, 68 raglan, 62, 75-76 test fitting of sloper set, 53-56 \"safari\" shirt, 80 Third World production, 2 sweatshirt, 73, 75-76 thread, 12 t-shirt, 67 three-thread overlock machine, 9-10 tissue paper, 16sleeve theory, 64 torso, 21sloper, 1-2 trouser draft, 48-53. See also pants coat, 159-161 crotch curves, 51-52 jacket and coat, 35, 143-145 trouser sloper, jacket sloper and, 143-144 jean, 118 true bias, 3 paper for, 15 truing,7sloper set, drafting of, 35-59 checklist for, 35-36 elbow dart, 47 fitted set-in sleeve, 44-48 of upper body sloper, 42-43 measurement tables, 58-59 T-shirt (style 0401), 65-67 test fitting of, 53-56 completed pattern, 67 trouser, 48-53 tuck, 13 upper body sloper, 35, 36-43 turtleneck collar, 62, 63 twill (cotton fabric), 102, 104 back, 39-41 twill tape, 20 final truing of, 42-43 front, 36-38 underarm/sideseam corner, 23, 37, 39specification sheets under collar, 62 long-sleeve shirt, 88-89 underlining, 7, 169sti tch line, 8, 14 undershirts, 65straight grainline, 3, 54 upper body sloper, 35, 36-43straight rolled collar, 62, 63straight-stitch machine, 10 back, 39-41stretch, in knits, 97,115 final truing of, 42-43stretch fabric linings, 169 front, 36-38stylelines, 2 upper collar, 62 in jean jacket sleeve, 149 upper torso measurement, 23-26 in shirts, 62, 72 utility vest (style 0503), 95, 102-106 in vests, 96 lining for, 170-171suit jackets lapels on, 141, 142 Velcro, 102, 105 170-171 styles of, 141 vests, 95-107suit jacket (style 0702), 151-158 button placement in, 151, 153, 158 knits, 96-99 completed patterns, 156-158 completed pattern, 98-99 lining for, 172-176 contrasting color in, 5, 96 notched lapel for, 141, 152-153 ease in, 97, 99 sleeves for, 154-156 front and back, 97-98 three-button variation, 158suit vests (style 0502),95,99-101 lining in, 6, 170-171suspenders, 110 wovens, 99-106sweat pants (style 0661),109~ 113~ 115 completed patttrn, 115~ completed patterns, 101, 105sweatshirt (style 0403),71-76 . suit vest, 95, 99-101 completed pattern, 13~74 utility vest (style 0503),95, 102-J06, hood for, 73, 74 . pullover,.71-l4 waistband raglan sleeve variation, 75-76 in classic jeans, 122 drawstring, in sweat pants, 113, 114tailoring, 142 elasticized, 115, 126tailor tacks, 20, 21 in pleated-front trousers, 131, 136-137 in shorts, 126 waistband curtain, 131, 136, 137 waistcoat, 95 waist dart, 39, 40, 41, 52-53 waistline woven vests, 95, 99-101 completed patterns, 101, 105 on body form, 20 suit vest, 95, 99-101 curve of, 53 utility vest (style 0503), 95, 102-106 ease in, 55, 65 jean sloper, 118 yards of fabric, 3 on live model, 21, 22 yoke low-rise pants, 110 of sloper, 38, 39 in jeans, 122waist measurement, chest and, 109 in shirt, 78warp grain, 3 in vest, 96weave-the-weft grain, 3welt pocket, 5, 154 zippers, 17wool melton, 161 in jeans, 122wool suiting, 128, 151 in pockets, 104-105wool suit vest, 95 in shorts, 126, 127wooly nylon thread, 12 in vests, 96, 102, 104woven shirts. See shirts, woven The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers pattern making tech-niques for a variety of styles of garments and includes information on sizing, lining, and fabrics.Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking tech-niques. This guide covers the pattern making process for an array of menswear garments, as well asthe accompanying theories and concepts.TEXT FEATURES to decimal point chart, • Measurement guide for men's sizes • Size charts and specification sheets • Photos and detailed illustrations accompany step-by-step instructions • End-of-chapter questions, learning activities, and practice problems .Appendices include sloper set, metric conversion chart, fractions of inches French curve, sample pattern chart, and sample specification sheets